The Garden Isle: Kaua'i

More lush than you know what to do with.

April 2024

#travel #adventure #sightseeing

---

Travel Plans:

Departing from: SEA

Arriving at: LIH

Flight time: 5 hours 45 minutes

Lodging: Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort

Length of Stay: 3 days

Arriving at LIH (Lihue Airport) you are greeted with a largely open-air terminal with easy access to baggage claim, passenger pick-up and drop-off areas and shuttles to the rental car desks. With only 12 gates it's fairly straightforward.

After getting my car (a Jeep this week just for fun and because it was a good deal!) I was off to check in and wait for Noel to arrive later in the day. He was working and planned on taking a later flight.

If you've never been to Kaua'i before, it's basically an island on which there are a few main roads, and you cannot drive all the way around the island. The lifestyle has a slower pace here and the local towns like to showcase their originality.

Our stay for this short trip was centered around Kapa'a, a town central on the eastern coastline. The Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort is a Marriott property that had reasonable rates. This was our first time staying here and I would definitely stay here again. It was easy-in-easy-out with no hassle parking. Check-in was quick, greeted with a shell lei and guava juice. Our room was a basic ocean-view room looking out over the pool.

The chairs near the beach offered a welcome change of scenery for wave-watching and the bar had some tasty tropical options. There was also a game room adjacent and open to the pool area where you could play pool, shuffleboard and Pac-Man. :)

After a solid night's sleep we headed out fairly early the next morning. Waimea Canyon, Barking Sands and Poipu were on the itinerary for the day.

Pacific Missile Range Facility, Barking Sands

As a retired military personnel, one of the benefits and privileges Noel has is access to military installations.  Once inside we are able to use their facilities through the Morale, Welfare, and Recreation (MWR) Program, and can shop at post exchanges (PX), and the commissaries. At the southernmost part of Kauai Island lies the only military base known as the US Navy Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF).  Cottages, recreation facilities, and, of course, the restaurant (Shenanigans) are near the ocean and are the go-to places when visiting. The walking and running trails provide a glimpse of isolation and relaxation that is available here. The beach area gives you the feeling of being lost on an island, and the feeling that “Wilson” from Castaway is right around the corner.  This military outpost serves as the western-most defense and missile detection for the United States. While the lush beach and seemingly low-key vibe can lead you to think there's not much going on here, the large satellites remind us that there is much more going on than we visitors can see.  

On the base there is a beautiful beach where we saw a few standard beach-going characters...the Napping Seal, The Rooster and The Noel.

On the northern edge of the beach there is a flat 1 mile gravel-packed trail that provides some shade and different views of the beach.

After a short walk we were ready to check out the one restaurant on base, Shenanigan's. Under covered outdoor seating looking out at the beach, we had a relaxing lunch before visiting the small Navy Exchange (obligatory stop!) and heading out the Waimea Canyon.

Waimea Canyon

This state park is a large canyon and gorge area with a main focal point being a large waterfall. Very driveable, it can take an entire day if you are doing any hiking. There are several trails, ranging from very easy to very strenuous. The weather can be unpredictable, but we were lucky enough to catch some openings in the clouds and fog to get some great views of the canyon and the falls.

Initial part of the drive was very foggy, but we did see the waterfall.

We did take one short loop trail but the fog came in again so views of the canyon were pretty limited.

I did like these Dr. Suess plants though!

After driving back down out of the canyon, we needed a little pick-me-up. Kauai Coffee was the perfect stop. They offer a short self-guided tour that highlights the coffee they grow and an overview of coffee production in general. I highly recommend the Kalaheo Estate - dark roast with with chocolate overtones.

Poipu and Koloa

Poipu is always a stop for us. Sometimes shorter, sometimes longer, but Poipu is a pleasant place to hang around. There are a few shopping areas with upscale art galleries, local jewelry artists and restaurants. There is also Old Koloa Town close by, with several eateries and an old-timey General Store.

One of our favorites in this area is The Beach House.

A more upscale restaurant, the food is excellent, but the real showcase is their location which offers unforgettable sunset views. Get there for Happy Hour, grab a chair on the lawn and stay for watching the surfers and the sunset.

Day 2 started out with breakfast at Island Craves in Kapa'a.

They had everything from a solid eggs and bacon option with Hawaiian pancakes to simple donuts and coffee. The eggs and pancakes were excellent and the donuts we saved for later were also some of the best! We then headed to the northern part of the island.

Hanalei

Situated on the north shore of Kauai, Hanalei is my favorite place to visit on the island.  It is, after all, where the movie 'South Pacific' was made. The green tropical trees and the crescent bay encircles the whole area like a wreath.  Its name translated means Lei Valley.

We rented a kayak and spent the entire morning exploring the river from the bay up through the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. 

We saw many turtles, bird species, and other water creatures. Going upstream initially, it took about an hour and a half to get to the turnaround point. 

Coming back the current eased our way, taking about an hour for the return trip. This was an enjoyable activity with great scenery. We did not go all the way out to the ocean but that is also an option when you rent the kayaks. The locals employed by Kayak Hanalei were very helpful, assisting us in and out of the water.  A San Francisco Forty Niners flag waving proudly was an extra incentive for supporting this business. ;)  This kayak experience is highly recommended if you prefer a more private and easy experience. The Wailua River, further south on the island, can be a bit more crowded with tourists. 

Soon after we pulled in our kayak we were ready for some lunch in Hanalei.  My craving for Filipino food could not be satisfied as the food truck did not show up that day. We settled on the Kalypso Island Bar and Grill.  Food prices are reasonable and of course, a fresh, ice-cold Longboard Lager was a great thirst-quencher.  After lunch we browsed some of the stores there where you can get all kinds of local island merchandise.

A little further north, just past Princeville, is where the road ends on the north end of the island at Ha'Ena State Park. Reservations are required here so plan ahead. For us it was a turnaround only. The trails here are quite variable and often affected by the harsh storms that hit this part of the island. Even without reservations at the park, it's worth the drive for the terrific scenery along the way.

Last but not least, no trip to the islands is complete without a stop at a coconut stand. Fresh, young coconuts provide a refreshing and cool drink. Despite it having the label of being a laxative, I have never experienced any harsh effects from sipping down fresh coconut juice right from the source. YUM!

When you've finished the juice, have the folks at the stand chop open the coconut so you can scoop out the fresh soft, white coconut meat from inside the shell. That and some fresh mango slices, you'll get your second wind!

Kauai has so much to do and see, and also is a little different from the hustle that is Oahu and Honolulu. A treat for the senses with its lush greenery, it can be a very relaxing place to visit. A few other activities we'd recommend are the following:

Secret Falls This part kayak and part hike trip gets you to a waterfall where you can swim right into the falls. I'm a little sad to see this now so touristy. We did this trip several years ago on our own and I'm sure the crowds have significantly increased. Still, now as a guided tour it may still be a fun day. Easy kayaking, moderate hike through the jungle and across streams. Wear sandals and swimsuits!

Capt Andy's Na Pali Coast boat tour This is a phenomenal experience! A large catamaran takes you along the northwestern side of the island for a look at the Na Pali coastline from the sea. They offer a chance to snorkel, lunch is included in the tour and a one-of-a-kind view of the spectacular and majestic Na Pali coastline that you cannot view from anywhere else (except a helicopter ride).

Na 'Aina Kai and the National Tropical Botanical Garden There is no shortage of outrageously beautiful flowers and foliage on Kauai and these places showcase them all!

Please let us know if you have any favorite places on Kauai. We've been there a few times and always are discovering something new. Mahalo!